Sunday 23 August 2015

Why Pore-Shrinking Products Don’t Work- Plus What Gets Rid of Blackheads


We’ve all learned by now that the claims on so-called “pore-shrinking” products are mostly bogus. If you struggle with blackheads, you’ve probably been lured in by at least one of them before. And that’s unfortunate. These ploys blatantly pander to our perpetual desire to achieve perfect skin, touting results that are sadly unrealistic (if not altogether impossible).
WHY WE HAVE PORES
Our pores are responsible for some vital functions: they release sebum (this is actually a good thing) and sweat (which enables the body to regulate its temperature). Without pores, we’d not only overheat—our skin would be parched, cracked, and scaly. Not a good look.
WHY SO-CALLED PORE-SHRINKING PRODUCTS DON’T WORK
The size of our pores, much like the size of our nose, is determined by genetics—and while they cannot be shrunken, they can, and often do grow larger as we age. What we certainly can do is improve their appearance by keeping them clear, so that they appear less pronounced.
WHAT TO AVOID
I used to love pore strips. At one point, I had an unhealthy obsession with them. Seeing dirt get sucked up by a virtual vacuums pretty satisfying. However, if used too often, these same pore strips that provide instant gratification can also disrupt the healthy balance of sebum in the pores and make them look bigger. Similarly, harsh toners that strip the skin to a squeaky clean state can prompt oil glands to overcompensate. This results in oilier skin and more visible and enlarged pores.
WHAT ACTUALLY WORKS
There are an overwhelming number of skin care products specifically designed for pores. Personally, I prefer to order everything online so I ordered Proactiv+.
I’d seen their ads before—we all have, but what got my attention this time was their latest line, Proactiv+. It uses something called Smart Target® technology, which delivers benzoyl peroxide (a clinically proven acne-fighting ingredient) directly into the pores where it can do its job. What this means is that it helps to purge the oil and debris that is clogging your pores and causing your blackheads.
THE RESULTS
Within a couple weeks of using Proactiv+ I noticed some of my blackheads becoming “unplugged”—no extractions (aka pore strips) needed. When I read that benzoyl peroxide would help to unplug pores, I didn’t think it would be that literal. At the end of the month, I started seeing other differences like a more even skin tone, and a glow—I’m talking a legit, post-workout-kind-of radiance.
Turns out other users shared similar experiences. After two weeks, 95% said they noticed an improvement in their skin’s overall texture, and after four weeks, 89% said their pores appeared smaller.*
UPDATE: If you’re wondering how you can get your hands on Proactiv+ ASAP, you’re going to love this. Right now, they’re running an exclusive offer for new customers to get a Skin Purifying Mask & Blackheads Dissolving Gel as FREE gifts with introductory purchase. Proactiv will even pay the cost of shipping!  Follow this link to take advantage of this amazing offer, but quick—we have a feeling it won’t be around for long.
*Based on a user-perception study after a total of 13 weeks of use.
**With purchase of 90-day supply plus $5.99 shipping & handling. Additional details in order summary. 

Your Guide to Rescuing Dry, Damaged Hair



Alas, summer is almost over. But, not to worry, it always leaves something for us to remember it by! Maybe it’s a tan, a vacation souvenir, beach photos… or even damaged, dry hair.
It’s sad but true. Those long days in the sun, chlorinated swimming pools, or repeated trips to the salon for “sun-kissed” highlights often lead to hair woes. Is your hair damaged or dry? If so, take action with these tips from eSalon Color Director Estelle Baumhauer!

Damaged Hair vs. Dry Hair

Damaged hair often occurs if you frequently apply strong chemical treatments to your hair (including keratin treatments, relaxers, and bleach). A telltale sign is if your ends look dull, your hair feels brittle, and it doesn’t absorb hair color.
Dry hair usually looks and feels frizzy with many split ends. It can be caused by frequent use of heated styling tools, not using conditioner, repetitive color treatments, and direct overexposure to the sun.

Restore & Repair 

Giving those ends some TLC.Moisturize: Moisturizing your hair will fight dryness and give your hair a healthier, hydrated feeling. Estelle recommends “pure, natural oils,” like those in our Shining Armor Renewing Oil Treatment, to help lock in moisture.
Trim: If your split ends are giving you a splitting headache, the only solution is a trim. Estelle recommends trimming regularly because “split ends can actually travel up the rest of your hair.” Yikes!
Turn Down the Heat: Reduce further damage by minimizing your use of heated styling tools. If you can’t part with your flat or curling iron, be sure to use the lowest heat setting and apply a heat-protectant beforehand.
Healthy Hair Diet: Eating the right vitamins and minerals can help grow stronger hair! Foods that promote healthy hair growth are full of vitamins B6 and B12, omega-3 fatty acids, protein, and iron.
Hair Mask: Estelle suggests applying a deep conditioning hair mask. Those that are ultra-hydrating will seal in moisture to help restore and repair brittle, dry hair. Perfect to get your hair sleek and in shape for fall! (And we just have to let you in on something: eSalon is releasing their own hair masks this fall! Stay tuned.)
Voila!Quality Hair Color: If you’re going to color your hair, make sure it’s a high quality pigment with included conditioning agents to help promote healthy hair. eSalon hair color is filled with vitamin E, B5 and aloe vera, which help condition dry and damaged hair.

Even Clairol Customers Admit this is Great Hair Color

Loyal Clairol hair color customers are turning their heads away from the popular brand, as an upstart home color company, eSalon.com, is making their hair look better than ever.
One client wrote in that eSalon’s hair color is “The best coloring product I have used. I have had my hair colored a few times in salons. Otherwise I have used over-the-counter products such as Clairol… [eSalon’s] product was far superior.”
“I tried practically every box on the market but always had terrible luck…then I did the eSalon thing…My hair was sooo soft and shiny!!! The color was really great. My friend assumed I had gone to a professional…,” commented Total Beauty reviewer, Christina C.

eSalon’s answer for hair color

eSalon’s expert colorists know that mass made boxed hair color couldn’t possibly work for everyone. So they craft each eSalon color—one-by-one—using the precise formula they feel will best attain each woman’s goals.
High-quality ingredients and pigments go into the advanced salon-grade formulas, which allow eSalon to deliver superior grey coverage, along with rich, long-lasting, healthy hair color.
The personalized pigment even has your name on the bottle, because it’s made only for you. And for a total hassle-free experience, each hair color order is delivered right to your door, and the color is under $20. That’s a far cry from the $100-plus you’d pay at a salon!
Just ask eSalon’s colorists how jealous some can get: “It’s so bad, we’re sometimes reluctant to tell other colorists what we do. But we’re proud of the service we provide for professional women.”

Worth a try!

Customized color truly makes a difference. eSalon already has earned a handful of high-profile mentions. Rachael Ray featured it on her show, whileInStyle Magazine named it “Best of the Web” and Total Beauty reviewers voted it “Best Hair Color” for 2013 and 2014 – two years running! Plus, it won the highly coveted award for “Best Home Hair Color” from Allure.
It even comes with a professional coloring brush, gloves, stain guard, stain remover, and shampoo & conditioner – in addition to the guidance of expert colorists. Plus to top it off, eSalon has a special offer for new customers: Get your first custom color kit for only $10* (a 50% savings!), with a satisfaction guarantee or your money back.

How to Ditch Blackheads for Good

Follow this step-by-step guide to rid your skin of stubborn blackheads and get clear skin -- finally


Blackheads: The word alone is ugly. And the reality of having blackheads on your face is even more unpleasant -- so much so that we understand why women are willing to go to great lengths to find out how to get rid of blackheads.

But before you bust out that magnifying mirror and start popping blackheads like it's a game (seriously, don't do that), you'll want to check out our helpful guide to getting rid of blackheads fast. In other words, we picked the brains of experts so you don't have to pick at the blackheads on your nose.

Read our guide to ditching blackheads for good now.

So, what is a blackhead? Blackheads are basically the same as whiteheads, except blackheads have an oxidized fatty deposit, which makes them look dark, giving them their name, explains Dr. Harold Lancer, MD, dermatologist and Medical Director of Epicuren. "Blackheads differ from other pimples because they are open, and not enclosed by a layer of skin like most spots or pimples," he says.

And what is the best way to remove blackheads? We rounded up trusted, expert-approved techniques for blackhead removal -- which should prevent you from ever having the urge to pick again. Here, your ultimate guide on how to get rid of blackheads once and for all.

 What Is a Blackhead?


Consider this your 101 on what causes blackheads. The No. 1 culprit: your DNA. Blackheads are a genetically inherited predisposition, so they are genetically programmed to occur or not occur, says Lancer. If you have the genes for them --lucky you -- then your lifestyle choices can make blackheads more glaring.

In short, all the things that we know aren't good for us (think: caffeine, alcohol, dairy products and a high-carb, high-fat diet) can cause blackheads. Oh, and surprise, surprise: Stress also makes blackheads worse because it influences hormone production, which causes little spikes of testosterone that predispose skin to blackhead formation. The longer blackheads go untreated, the more they expand your pores, and the longer they stay expanded, the bigger your pores become.

Use a Cleanser that Prevents Blackheads

Like getting rid of plain old pimples, your first line of defense against blackheads is properly cleansing your skin. In the mornings, wash your face with an exfoliating face wash, such as a salicylic acid-based cleanser, recommends Dr. Mona Gohara, MD, associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine.

"[Salicylic acid] penetrates skin and sebaceous follicles well," says Gohara. To boot, it acts as an antibacterial and an anti-inflammatory. Try Dermalogica MediBac Clearing Clearing Skin Wash, $36. We also like CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser, $11.99.

If salicylic acid is too much for your skin, Gohara suggests using a mild cleanser that has exfoliating properties but won't irritate. She likes Dove's Gentle Exfoliating Beauty Bar, $10.79 for six, and Glytone's Mild Gel Wash, $32.

Remove Blackheads by Toning

Post-cleanse, whip your skin into tip-top shape with a toner. Go for an alcohol-free product that contains Totarol (from the Totara tree which is antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial), says Lena Bratschi, a trained esthetician and founder of Carasoin Spa in Beverly Hills, California. This puts back the acid mantle (basically it restores the pH of your skin).

Try Astara Blue Flame Purifying Toning Mist, $39, or Jurlique Purely Bright Mist, $39.

Add Acne-Fighting Ingredients at Night

Sometimes you need to break out the heavy-hitters. And when it comes to getting rid of blackheads, that means using benzoyl peroxide and retinol. "Benzoyl peroxide is tried and true in terms of getting rid of acne," Gohara says. It's good at eliminating pesky, blackhead-causing bacteria, she explains. Try AcneFree Oil-Free Acne Cleanser, $5.99 -- it's affordable and contains 2.5 percent benzoyl peroxide.

Likewise, retinol products boost cell turnover, which helps unplug your pores, she says. Gohara likes La Roche-Posay Redermic [R], $56.99. "It's a 0.1 percent retinol, so it's buffered to get your skin in better shape, but it's less irritating," she says. "Even if you have a smidge of rosacea or sensitive skin, you can tolerate this product."

But don't go crazy with these potent ingredients. Gohara suggests switching between them. For example, you may want to use the benzoyl peroxide on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays and use the retinol on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. "The reason I like to use them on alternate days is so that it's not overly irritating," she says.


50 Tattoo Artists You Need to Know

Image via Life and Times
These days, it's more common to have a tattoo than not, and as changing societal norms make it acceptable for even the most clean-cut crews to be inked up, more and more folks are going under the gun. Since tattoos literally last forever, why not dream big? If you had unlimited funds, time, and travel budget, who would be the artist to put a permanent stamp on your skin? Hopefully it won't be Miley Cyrus...
Make sure to do some research before getting inked permanently, by checking out different types of lettering and the artists who are on the come up. If you want to get a new tattoo, put some money away to make sure it's done right, and consider one of these 50 Tattoo Artists You Need to Know before you go in.

Doug Hardy

Location: San Francisco
Son of legend Don Ed Hardy, Doug runs San Francisco's well-known shop Tattoo City. With his dope artistry, Doug does a fine job of upholding the family legacy.

Rob Kelly

Location: Hong Kong
Rodeo Rob hits a nice mix of East and West in his Hong Kong shop. From koi to roses, Rob has it covered. His art is a mix of new-school color and traditional line value.

Angelique Houtkamp

Location: Amsterdam
After starting her career relatively late in life (at 30), Angelique developed a traditional style with a feminine touch that works just as well on skin as it does on canvas.

Annette LaRue

Location: Various
When we asked about her style, Annette said, "I love traditional tattoos and paying customers!" She's old-school, and as the proprietor of New Orleans' Electric Lady Land, she brings over 20 years of experience to the table.

Keith Underwood

Location: Austin, Texas
A pupil of the late, great Mike Malone (who in turn was a pupil of the great Sailor Jerry), Keith Underwood has been tattooing for over a decade. During that time, he has mastered and refined his own take on classic American street-shop styles. Keith is a link to the golden era of American tattooing, so if that's what you're looking for, head to Austin.

Lana Wingo

Location: Chicago
Ms. Wingo has a lovely style. Her work is bold and bright and has all the right detail. Her flowers are superb, and you can't go wrong if you go to her for a traditional Americana tattoo.

Jeffrey Pitt

Location: Santa Fe, N.M.
Boasting over 13 years of work in the industry, Pitt's dope designs helped to bring his and Charlie Foos' Baltimore-based tattoo parlor Read Street to the attention of many. He is currently working with Dawn Purrell as an in-studio artist.

Valerie Vargas

Location: London
Former Frith Street Resident, Valerie Vargas opened her own tattoo parlor in London in 2014. Known for her dynamic visual style and feminine illustrations, her women and flower tattoos are as perfect as they come. So if you are in London and dying to get inked, check out Modern Classic Tattoo.

Bert Krak

Location: Brooklyn
Bert Krak holds down Brooklyn's Smith Street, and he pushes classic New York tattooing forward. His work features strong lines and bold colors, all with distinct quirks. Go to him for new-school takes on the old.

Bailey Hunter Robinson

Location: Brooklyn
Bailey's love of American folk art comes through in his tattooing. Whether in black and gray or in color, his interpretation of classic Americana is always remarkable.

Louis Molloy

Location: Manchester, UK
Molloy is the man behind David Beckham's ink. He's super-talented and can do all kinds of things, but his religious subject matter is where it's at. Few artists come close to his angles.

Freddy Corbin

Location: Oakland
Corbin is another tattoo legend. He was schooled by Don Ed Hardy and worked with guys like Bill Salmon to perfect his craft. Freddy Corbin's execution of religious iconography is top-notch and awe-inspiring.

Woon Kim

Location: Schwenningen, Germany
Woon Kim brings together a host of international styles, mixes them up, and makes them his own. Musicians are a favorite subject, and he does great portrait tattoos. If you're looking to put a lady on your body, female figures by Woon Kim are well-conceived.

Kat Von D

Location: West Hollywood, Calif.
Kat Von D—who hasn't heard of this gal? Regardless of her celebrity, she can hang with and do portraits alongside the best of them.

Placaso

Location: Santa Ana, Calif.
Placaso comes from the SoCal black-and-gray tradition; his work is similar to Mr. Cartoon and Boog. He can do all the Chicano lowrider stuff, the lettering, and the clowns, but his portraits are what set him apart.

Shane O'Neill

Location: Middletown, Del.
Point blank—Shane O'Neill is a god in the world of photorealistic portrait tattoos.

JK5

Location: Brooklyn
RISD graduate Joseph Ari Aloi is known for a whole host of graphic-design ventures. Tattooing is where he remains most deep-rooted, though. JK5 opened his first custom shop in 1997, and superb composition has made him a household name in the tattoo community. His collaboration series with clothing brand Mishka helped introduce him to the Hypebeast set.

Grime

Location: San Francisco
Grime is your favorite tattooist's favorite tattooist. His work has been compiled in a book, Iron Will, which is currently sold out, but if you hit him up maybe you'll get lucky for the holidays.

Scott Campbell

Location: New York
Famed for his celebrity clients, including one Mr. Marc Jacobs, Campbell can handle a range of styles. He excels when it comes to traditional Mexican imagery. Think death masks—very good death masks. Scott also renders some remarkable takes on cartoon characters.

Nao Takamura

Location: Fukuoka, Japan
Tattooing out of his apartment, Nao Takamura offers tradition with a contemporary twist. His tattoos are one part Japan, one part SoCal.

Steve Moore

Location: Vancouver, Canada
Steve Moore is one of Vancouver's finest. The former skater has been tattooing since 1993, and since then he's developed a penchant for big, colorful sleeves.

Julian Garner

Location: Ottawa, Canada
A former pro skater, Julian Garner now holds down Ottawa's Five Cents. His best work emphasizes shading with ultra-delicate line work that allows the colors to take center stage.

David Glantz

Location: Toronto
David Glantz began in his hometown of Ottawa before moving to Toronto and becoming the city's favorite ink-slinger. His influences come from comics, graffiti, and a bit of Art Nouveau. 

Regino Gonzales

Location: New York
Regino Gonzales offers a new-school take on a number of traditional styles. He can hit a full-color bird just as neatly as a black-and-gray ship, and if you want a full, darkly themed body suit, he can kill it for you.

BJ Betts

Location: Wilmington, Del.
Typography titan BJ Betts excels at lettering—in fact, he literally wrote the tattooist's guide (four volumes worth). Aside from killer stomach-rockers, Mr. Betts produces gorgeous flowers and fantastic koi fish.

Jimmy Hayden

Location: Cleveland
Hayden, the owner of Focused Tattoo, has adorned two of the Cleveland area's finest exports: LeBron James and rapper Stalley.

Maxime Buchi

Location: Brooklyn
Not only is Buchi a talented tattooer, he is also the creative mind behind the brilliant Sang Bleu magazine. Buchi trained under the famed Filip Leu, and his design background ensures superb lettering. He now has his own tattoo studio in London, also titled Sang Bleu.

Norm

Location: Los Angeles
Norm rose to fame as part of the AWR/MSK graffiti crews. He later shifted to gallery work, and then to the body. Norm slings ink from his Will Rise Studio on Fairfax in L.A. and offers sound lettering and a tight California style.

Julie Becker

Location: Los Angeles
Julie is a terrific tattoo artist. Her psychedelic mix of florals and symbolism makes her work stand out. Unfortunately, she is currently taking a small break from tattooing to focus on fine arts.

Horishow

Location: Fukuoka, Japan
If you want a tattoo of traditional Japanese subject matter with bold color, head to Fukuoka and seek out Horishow. He is the man.

Chris Garver

Location: Miami Beach, Fla.
Fans of tattoo reality-TV know Chris Garver as the guy from Miami Ink that did Lloyd Banks' "Rotten Apple" back piece. Garver has a capacity for different tattoo styles, but his best work draws from traditional Japanese work.

Chris O'Donnell

Location: New York
Once tattooing alongside Scott Campbell at Saved, O'Donnell specializes in Japanese-style tattoos. He has since moved to Kings Avenue Tattoo. He does it all: super dragons, scrolls, skulls, geisha girls, koi, etc.

Chris Trevino

Location: Austin, Texas
Also known as Horimana, the Austin-based Chris Trevino has been tattooing for 20 years. His take on traditional Japanese ink has resulted in some major body suits, and his work exhibits a perfect balance between black-and-gray and color. A lot of Horimana's work has found its way onto merchandise. It can all be seen in his 2011 book, Gods and Warriors, Horimana: The Art of Chris Trevino.

Erin Chance

Location: Richmond, Va.
Ms. Chance does awesome ladies and cats in top hats. She excels in figurative tattooing.

Joe Capobianco

Location: New Haven, Conn.
Got a fetish for females? Joe Capobianco will indulge your fantasy. His figures are unique—if you want something bold, eye-catching, and completely different from your buddy's barbed-wire bicep, call this dude.

Bugs

Location: Los Angeles
Need to settle an argument about tattooing as art? Show a few pictures of Bugs' work to your mother. The Parisian-born, L.A.-based artist creates tattoos with painterly strokes and an abstract/cubist style.

Nick Baxter

Location: Various
Nick Baxter is able to execute perfect depictions of classic chairs; the Eames lounge is just the tip of a remarkable iceberg. Baxter also excels at large-scale color tattoos. Outstanding—always.

Dave Fox

Location: Various
Dave Fox's tattoos burst with color. His elongated figures are distinct and have a charm to them. He is currently on the road.

Thomas Hooper

Location: Austin, Texas
Thomas Hooper is bringing a new twist to tribal. Leo Zulueta brought it to the mainstream, then it got lost in the muck, and now guys like Hooper, Xed, and DiMattia are bringing it back. Hooper is doing it by hooking up traditional subjects with tribal geometry.

Daniel DiMattia

Location: Liege, Belgium
DiMattia is another master of blackwork, but don't go confusing it with your older cousin's "tribal" piece from 1996—this guy is legit. DiMattia's minute detail and penchant for geometric patterns result in astounding tattoos.

Xed Ledhead

Location: London
Ledhead is London's blackwork legend. His tattoos are delicate, intricate works, and feature his trademark pointillist style.

Tuki Carter

Location: Atlanta
Alongside his partner Miya Bailey, Tuki Carter has built Atlanta's City of Ink into one of the premier tattoo shops in the country. Carter is a pioneer, his work is terrific, and his client list is a testament to his stellar reputation. Rappers Rick Ross, Young Jeezy, and Wiz Kalifa have all gotten work from Carter. However, Carter works less as a tattoo artist now and is pursing a music career.

Goethe

Location: Hong Kong
Goethe specializes in pre-Hispanic images, and all of his tattoos have terrific depth. His style is closely connected to Southern California black-and-gray techniques, but his subject is markedly different. His understanding of Aztec and Mayan iconography allows him to corner a unique niche in the marketplace.

Eric Eaton

Location: Philadelphia
Whether it's owls, portraits, or skulls—or anything else for that matter—Eaton tackles his subjects with an eye for extreme detail. His work is known for its strong sense of composition, and his tattoos never cease to impress the ladies.

James Acrow

Location: Vancouver, Canada
Remember the awesome graphics from Battle Axe Records releases? Those were all James Acrow. His tattoos share the same punch, and he also does amazing birds.

Bang Bang

Location: New York
Bang Bang is one of New York's young, rising tattoo stars, and Rihanna is a big fan. He's a protégé of Paul Booth, so his training is legit.

Boog

Location: Various
Big Boog Star is a street tattoo legend and one of a handful of major hip-hop tattooists. Boog is internationally known for lettering, and he also crushes traditional Chicano subject matter.

Jun Cha

Location: Los Angeles
A young gun with a class pedigree, Jun Cha apprenticed under Baby Ray, Chuey Quintanar, and Jose Lopez. He also learned a little from Cartoon. Jun Cha only graduated from art school a few years ago, but the dual lessons of the classroom and the tattoo shop show. Cha is steeped in history, and he favors historical subject matter. He excels at creating mythological figures.

Mister Cartoon

Location: Los Angeles
Soul Assassin Mr. Cartoon went from designing the Cypress Hill logo to becoming hip-hop's favorite tattoo artist. Get a tattoo from Cartoon and not only will you own a fine example of L.A. lowrider ink, but you'll also join Dr. Dre, Eminem, 50 Cent, and pretty much every Hollywood actor and model in the annals of tattoo history.

Paul Booth

Location: New York
Paul Booth is a legend. Dark themes are his specialty, and his style has influenced a host of East Coast artists working in black-and-gray. Salute to the top dog on our list!